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Solved problems · Deck gear · Crew answer

Why does my anchor windlass click but not turn?

A click means the control circuit works but full power isn't reaching the motor. Measure voltage at the contactor and motor under load; worn contactors and voltage drop are the usual causes.

Symptom

Pressing the up or down switch gives a click from the contactor (solenoid), but the windlass doesn't turn, or it turns slowly and stalls under load.

Likely cause

Windlass problems are usually electrical. The click only proves the switch and the contactor coil work. Burnt contacts inside the contactor, a tripped breaker or isolator, undersized or corroded cables, or a weak battery can keep full current from the motor. Less often, worn motor brushes or a seized gearbox or gypsy are to blame.

Stop now if

The motor, cables or contactor get hot or smell burnt, or the chain is under load and can't be secured. Never put hands near the gypsy while anyone can press the switch, and isolate the windlass breaker before working on it. Don't use the windlass to drag the boat up to the anchor in strong wind; motor forward to take the load off.

The fix, in short

  1. Make it safe before testing. Secure the chain with a chain stopper or snubber so the windlass isn't holding the load, keep hands and clothing clear of the gypsy, and agree with whoever is at the switch that they stop the moment you say.

  2. Check the breaker, isolator and battery. Confirm the windlass breaker or isolator is on and the battery is charged. Run the engine while using the windlass; windlass makers rate performance at charging voltage (about 13.5 V on a 12 V system).

  3. Measure voltage across the contactor under load. With the switch held, measure at the contactor's main input and output studs. Good input but low or no output means burnt contacts: replace the contactor. A click alone does not prove the contacts are good.

  4. Measure voltage at the motor. Measure across the motor terminals while it tries to run. Lewmar gives proper voltage as 13.5 V on a 12 V system and says that if at least 12.5 V reaches the motor and it still won't turn, the motor is faulty. Lower voltage at the motor means voltage drop: look for undersized cable, loose or corroded lugs, and a hot isolator or contactor. Lewmar's limit is a 10% voltage loss across the whole cable run.

  5. Free up the mechanical side. With the windlass breaker or isolator off, release the clutch and check the gypsy turns by hand and the gearbox isn't seized or full of water. Service it according to the windlass manual.

Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.

Equipment involved

  • Windlass: Electric vertical or horizontal windlass with reversing contactor
  • Wiring: Heavy DC feed with breaker or isolator

Related guides

Sources

Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.

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