The fix, in short
Test the pump on manual. Switch the pump to manual at the panel. If it runs, the pump and main wiring are fine and the fault is in the float switch or its circuit.
Lift the float by hand. With the panel set to automatic, lift the float switch. The pump should start right away. If it doesn't, free any debris or hoses that stop it moving and try again.
Check the always-on feed and fuse. Automatic bilge circuits are commonly fed directly from the battery so they keep working with the battery switch off. Check that circuit's fuse and connections.
Test the switch with a meter. With power off, disconnect the float switch and check continuity. It should be open when down and closed when lifted. If it never changes, replace it.
Fix wet connections. Move splices above the bilge water line where you can, and use sealed heat-shrink connectors. Wet connections corrode quickly and can also feed stray current into the water.
Check the discharge. Make sure the discharge hose isn't kinked or blocked and has a vented loop or other siphon protection if its outlet can go under water when heeled.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Bilge: Electric bilge pump, float switch, panel switch, always-on fused feed and discharge hose
Related guides
- Why does my bilge pump run every time someone showers?
- How much should my stuffing box or dripless shaft seal leak?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
Members get the full step-by-step for their boat — join
This page is the short version. Members ask about their own boat and gear, get a guided fix matched to their equipment, and keep every case on file.
