The fix, in short
Get safe before you troubleshoot. If the engine falters in a seaway, sail or anchor clear of hazards first. A filter change can wait a few minutes; a lee shore can't.
Check the filter bowl and vacuum gauge. Look in the primary filter bowl for water, black sludge or slime. If there's a vacuum gauge, a reading that climbs as the engine loses power confirms a restriction before the lift pump.
Change the element and bleed. Fit a new primary element, and the secondary too if it's due, then bleed the system as the engine manual describes. Carry several spares, because a dirty tank can clog another filter quickly.
Check the vent and pickup. A blocked tank vent creates vacuum as fuel is used. Make sure the vent fitting and hose are clear. A recurring clog right after filter changes points to debris at the pickup tube.
Deal with the tank. Repeated sludge means the tank needs cleaning or fuel polishing. Treat water and microbes at the source, keep tanks full in storage to limit condensation, and buy fuel from busy docks.
Fit a vacuum gauge and a dual filter. A vacuum gauge shows when a filter is loading up before the engine starts to falter. A switchable dual-filter setup lets you change to a clean element underway.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Fuel system: Fuel tank, vent, pickup, primary filter and water separator, lift pump
Related guides
- Why does my diesel engine crank but not start?
- Why is my marine diesel blowing black smoke?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
- Cruising World: Troubleshooting a sailboat's auxiliary diesel
- Trans Atlantic Diesels: Bleeding the fuel system and changing filters (PDF)
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