The fix, in short
Disconnect in the safe order. Turn off the boat's main shore breaker, then the pedestal breaker, then unplug at the pedestal first and at the boat inlet last. To reconnect, keep both breakers off, plug in at the boat first and the pedestal last, turn on the pedestal breaker and then the boat's main breaker, and check the polarity indicator before switching on anything else.
Tell the marina. Report the pedestal. If other boats on the dock are plugged in, the fault may affect them too.
Try another known-good pedestal. If the light stays off on a different, known-good outlet, the problem is likely the first pedestal. If it lights everywhere, suspect your cord, adapters or the boat's wiring.
Inspect cords and adapters. Look for damaged plugs, burnt pins and homemade adapters. Replace damaged cords rather than repairing them. Never use a cheater or 'reverse polarity' adapter to make the light go out, and never cut or bend the ground pin. Use only UL-listed marine cords and adapters.
Have an electrician check the boat. If it follows your boat, have an ABYC-certified marine electrician check the inlet, main breaker, panel wiring and the indicator itself.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Shore power: Dock pedestal, shore cord and adapters, boat inlet, main breaker and AC panel reverse polarity indicator
Related guides
- Guide: Shore power inlet or cord feels hot
- Why does my shore power keep tripping the ELCI or GFCI?
- Why are my zinc anodes wearing out so fast?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
- ABYC E-8 (2001, superseded by E-11)
- NFPA: Electric shock drowning
- NMMA: Understanding the risks of water and electricity (brochure)
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