The fix, in short
Measure both banks while charging. With the engine or charger running, measure voltage at each battery. If the charging bank reaches the relay's connect voltage but the other bank stays at resting voltage, the relay isn't closing.
Know the connect and disconnect points. Most relays close at around 13 V or above after a delay and open again near float voltage. Victron's Cyrix-ct, for example, waits about 10 minutes at 13.0 V but connects within seconds at 13.6 to 13.8 V. Check your relay's own manual.
Check the ground and fuses. Most relays need a negative wire to sense and switch. With power off, check that it's tight and clean, and that the fuses on both battery leads are intact.
Check where the chargers connect. If the alternator feeds the start battery and the relay never sees enough voltage there, the house bank won't charge, and vice versa. Make sure charge sources are wired to the side the relay expects.
Test the batteries themselves. Charge each bank fully on its own and let it rest. A battery that drops quickly under a small load may be failing rather than undercharged.
Consider a DC-DC charger for lithium. A plain combiner isn't suitable between lead-acid and lithium banks. Use a DC-DC charger or the battery maker's recommended method.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Charging system: Automatic charging relay, voltage sensitive relay or battery combiner, alternator, shore charger, start and house batteries
Related guides
- Guide: Battery banks sag after two cloudy days
- Guide: Alternator looks healthy at idle, then falls apart underway
- Why isn't my alternator charging my batteries?
- Why does my boat engine click but not crank?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
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