The fix, in short
Make sure the tank is full. Never switch on the element with an empty tank. Isotemp warns that the element must not be powered until the tank is filled. Open a hot tap until water runs steadily.
Check the breaker and GFCI. Confirm the water heater breaker and any GFCI feeding it are on. If the breaker trips again right away, stop and get the element checked.
Check the overheat cutout. With power off and the cover removed, find the manual reset on the thermostat or cutout and press it as the manual describes. If it keeps tripping, the thermostat may be faulty, so stop and have it tested.
Test the element. With power isolated, a marine electrician or a careful DIYer can measure the element's resistance with a meter. Open circuit means replace it.
Bleed the engine heating loop. If it only fails on engine heat, check that the coolant valves to the heater are open and bleed air from the heater coil hoses with the engine cold, following the engine manual.
Check the anode and relief valve. Some heaters have an anode that needs periodic replacement. Test the pressure relief valve per the manual, and replace it if it drips constantly.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Water heater: Marine calorifier with AC element, thermostat, overheat cutout, engine heat-exchanger coil and pressure relief valve
Related guides
- Why does my boat's fresh water pump keep cycling?
- Why does my shore power keep tripping the ELCI or GFCI?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
- Isotemp: Basic, Slim and Slim Square water heater manual (West Marine PDF)
- Isotemp: Basic and Slim manual (Exalto PDF)
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