The fix, in short
Find the real leak. Run water from a hose over the fitting while someone watches inside. Water can travel along the deck before it drips, so test one fitting at a time.
Remove the fitting. Back off the nuts from below and lift the fitting off. Clean old sealant from the fitting and deck with a plastic scraper and a solvent that suits the gelcoat.
Check the core. Probe the hole. Wet or soft core should be dug out and the hole filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled, so the core is sealed from water.
Countersink the holes slightly. A slight countersink at the top of each hole gives the bedding somewhere to sit and seal around the bolt.
Bed with butyl tape. Roll butyl tape around each bolt under the head and lay it on the fitting's base. Tighten gradually over a day or two, holding the bolt and turning the nut from below so the tape is compressed, not sheared.
Use backing plates. Make sure loaded fittings have proper backing plates or large washers below.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Deck hardware: Stanchion bases, cleats, tracks, padeyes, through-bolts, backing plates and cored deck
Related guides
- How do I stop a hatch or portlight from leaking?
- Why is my winch slipping or hard to turn?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
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