The fix, in short
Check the obvious first. Confirm the breaker or fuse and switch are on, and swap the bulb or test the LED fixture if it's easy to reach.
Measure voltage at the fixture. With the light switched on, measure volts across the fixture's wires. Full battery voltage with no light means the bulb, LED or socket. Zero means the fault is upstream.
Test the mast-base or deck connector. Many mast-light failures sit in the deck plug or junction near the mast base. Measure voltage on both sides of it and look for green corrosion or water inside.
Look for voltage drop. With the light on, compare battery voltage to the voltage at the fixture. ABYC guidance cited by Cruising World allows only about 3 percent drop on navigation light circuits. More points to corroded joints or wire that is too thin for the run.
Repair with marine-grade parts. Make connections with marine heat-shrink terminals and tinned wire, support the wire so its weight doesn't hang on the fixture, and protect it from chafe where it passes metal edges.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Navigation lights: Sidelights, sternlight, steaming light, masthead tricolor, deck plug and mast wiring
Related guides
- How do I test my NMEA 2000 network?
- Why does my boat engine click but not crank?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
- Professional BoatBuilder: Lights in the darkness
- Cruising World: On being well connected
- USCG Navigation Center: Navigation rules
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