The fix, in short
Get ready first. Tie a soft wood plug sized for the through-hull next to the valve, and make sure the bilge pump works before you try anything.
Use penetrating oil and patience. Apply penetrating oil around the handle stem and let it soak. Then rock the handle gently back and forth in small movements.
Use only modest leverage. A short wrench on the handle is the limit. Too much force can snap the handle or the stem, or crack the through-hull, and then you can't close it at all.
If it moves, work it fully. Once it frees, cycle it open and closed several times. Practical Sailor advises checking every seacock for smooth operation and servicing any that are stiff or frozen.
If it won't move, plan a haul-out. Leave it alone and have the valve serviced or replaced out of the water. Never take a seacock apart while afloat. Meanwhile, check the hose and clamps. Practical Sailor recommends double stainless clamps where the hose barb allows. Keep the plug tied at the valve.
Prevent it. Open and close every seacock regularly. At each haul-out, service and grease them as the maker recommends. If the boat has a bonding system, check that the bonding wires and connections are clean, tight and free of corrosion. Keep a soft wood plug tied at every through-hull.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Through-hulls: Seacocks (ball valves or tapered plug valves), through-hull fittings, hoses and clamps
Related guides
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- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
- Practical Sailor: Caring for seacocks
- Hydrasearch: How to free a stuck ball valve handle on your boat
- Cruising World: Avoid corrosion with a bonding system
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