The fix, in short
Don't start it. Running an engine on watery oil wipes out bearings quickly. Leave it off until the cause is found.
Close the raw-water seacock. With the engine off, close the cooling-water intake so no more seawater can siphon in.
Inspect the anti-siphon valve. Find the vented loop between the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow. Clean or replace a valve that is crusted with salt or stuck, and never cap, plug or remove it to stop it weeping. It must sit well above the waterline at every angle of heel.
Check coolant and the oil cooler. If the coolant level has dropped, coolant may be the water in the oil. A mechanic can test the oil for coolant or salt to tell seawater from coolant.
Have the engine cleared and flushed. A diesel mechanic will take the injectors out to clear water from the cylinders, change the oil and filter, and flush it several times with short runs before normal use.
Prevent a repeat. After several failed start attempts, close the raw-water seacock before cranking more. Check vented loops whenever you service the engine.
Written by Sailor Cruiser crew. General guidance, not an inspection of your boat.
Equipment involved
- Engine: Inboard marine diesel with raw-water cooling and wet exhaust
- Siphon protection: Anti-siphon valve (vented loop) and waterlift muffler
Related guides
- Why is my diesel blowing white or blue smoke?
- Why is my diesel engine overheating?
- All ten public guides
Sources
Background reading we checked while writing this answer. The wording above is our own.
- Professional BoatBuilder: Antisiphon valves
- Cruising World: A simple valve prevents flooding
- Ocean Alexander knowledge base: Check valves and anti-siphon valves
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